THE WALL OF FRIENDSHIP
by Caryn Granek

There are many walls in Israel – the most famous of course, is the Kotel also known as the Western Wall or the Wailing Wall. Lately lots of walls have been going up to separate Israelis and Palestinians in many areas of tension. And then there are the endless walls at Latrun, Yad Vashem and other places where thousands of names of the fallen are engraved.But this year a different wall was created in Israel – it is not likely to become a great tourist attraction, but for me it has become one of the most meaningful places in Israel and will always have a place in my heart.Last July I spent three weeks working as a volunteer on an IDF army base.As you enter the southern part of the base, driving down a long road, on the right hand side is a large warehouse, its long white wall facing the road. A large sign, dwarfed by the massive size of the wall, says in red letters : "Baruchim Habaim" – Welcome.

The basic structures that make up the base consist of warehouses, dormitories, laundries, washrooms and mess halls. Behind the complex of buildings that make up the volunteers quarters is a mass of eucalyptus trees that will make this Australian volunteer very homesick at times – longing for the simple sound of an Aussie accent, longing to have a conversation without having to translate simple Australianisms – like "nick-off". At the same time it is fun meeting people from all over the world and listening to their stories. Each one has a name, a story to tell and beneath the surface of people I sometimes find strange, there lies a heart that, once discovered, becomes a treasure - a precious conversation, an exchange of ideas and a better understanding.

I am fortunate to share the work in my warehouse with a vibrant Canadian woman called Rhona. She is an amazing person with many stories to tell….amongst other talents she is an illustrator – mainly of children’s books. She carries a sketch book and crayons with her whenever we have free time, and before long she has us sketching too – although my efforts are rather poor, it makes me appreciate even more, her ability to capture what is around us so well.We spend the first few days talking non stop, comparing our lives, our husbands, our children, our views on life and our plans and dreams for the future.

One day, wandering back to our communal area at the end of a shift, I see her sketching with great enthusiasm. Her face is aglow – not with the heat or perspiration, like the rest of us – but with excitement. She has an idea! Maybe she can create a mural for the base that will provide a more permanent connection between us……the base commander loves the idea and suggests the big white wall at the entrance to the base. Wonderful! Sketches, ideas, themes, more ideas, discussions and a few hours later there is a sketch – a wonderful picture of eighteen soldiers lining up for parade, each one touching the others shoulder, like we have seen them do every morning before flag raising.

The number eighteen is a beautiful coincidence that makes us wonder….they fit exactly on the space the wall provides.Before long, colours are chosen and paints provided, along with ladders, rags, and brushes. It is hot work, but everyone wants to take part. Rhona has sketched outlines and all of us try our best to fill in some part of the wall with a particular colour. She is patient, we are hot and bothered. She works with a passion and as her fair skin becomes quite red, we all ply her with water and beg her to stop during the hottest time of day – which she does reluctantly.

Messages of support are planned, created, compared and discussed … is this ok? How do you spell….has someone else already written this? Before too long the daily question all over the base becomes – have you seen the wall today? Did you see the latest message? The soldiers walking by stop and look, those driving jeeps and cars go past at the usual fast rate, but many slam on the brakes, reverse and stare in disbelief….I have seen many soldiers get out of their vehicles for a closer look and even wipe away a tear as they return to their work.

One day it is my turn to write a message – I will not be there to see the finished wall, but I think I can imagine how it will look. What will I write – how to convey the emotions in my heart – words seem so inadequate. In the end I write in Hebrew – with some spelling mistakes, despite my best efforts – and in English – May God give strength to your people, May God grant your people peace. Australia is with you always, With love, Caryn. It seems inadequate – I draw rays of sun around my writing…..as I am finishing a young officer comes to watch….he touches my shoulder lightly and says "Thank You" in a voice so soft and choked with emotion that I begin to cry. He walks away and I stand there, not knowing what to do next.

Home again and thrown suddenly into a different world that I call home. I can walk the streets without checking security reports. I do not need to be concerned if a pile of rubbish or builders rubble covers the footpath. I don’t need to listen to every news report all day long. It is quiet – too quiet. I miss the base, the people, the sense of purpose that I felt and the sense of determination and courage that drew people from so many lands and cultures into one dimension. I miss the fire in Rhona’s eyes as we talked about so many things.

One day, some weeks later, there is a large flat envelope in my mailbox. It is from Rhona – she has sent me pictures of the finished wall. I was wrong to think I could imagine it finished…it is so much more beautiful. The words written in the middle of the wall say it all – "Sar-El Wall Of Friendship. Wishing you Peace from the Diaspora. We Love You."And in the right hand corner of the wall sits the banner with the red letters that spell out "Welcome."

Caryn volunteered at Mazrap base for 3 weeks, June-July 2002.